Every spring the Serra de Tramuntana turns into Europe's training ground: Sa Calobra, Puig Major, the lighthouse road to Formentor. Between the climbs sit the things that make the island more than a wattage test: Roman bridges, springs, summits, and café stops with more carbon leaning outside than chairs inside.
The cafés cluster where the climbs do, between Caimari and Lluc. Sa Ruta Verda is down in the village, the Garage Café marks the top of the Coll de sa Batalla, and Es Guix sits on the old estate above it.